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10px;width:30px;height:30px;background-image:url(data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHZlcnNpb249IjEuMSIgd2lkdGg9IjQ4IiBoZWlnaHQ9IjQ4IiBzdHlsZT0iIj48cmVjdCBpZD0iYmFja2dyb3VuZHJlY3QiIHdpZHRoPSIxMDAlIiBoZWlnaHQ9IjEwMCUiIHg9IjAiIHk9IjAiIGZpbGw9Im5vbmUiIHN0cm9rZT0ibm9uZSIvPiAgICAgICAgPGcgY2xhc3M9ImN1cnJlbnRMYXllciIgc3R5bGU9IiI+PHRpdGxlPkxheWVyIDE8L3RpdGxlPjxwYXRoIGQ9Ik00MC4yLDMxLjNjMCwxLjMtMSwyLjQtMi4zLDIuNGgtNWwtNS44LDUuNnYtNS42SDkuOWMtMS4zLDAtMi4zLTEuMS0yLjMtMi40VjEwYzAtMS4zLDEtMi40LDIuMy0yLjRoMjggICAgICAgICBjMS4zLDAsMi4zLDEuMSwyLjMsMi40VjMxLjN6IE0zNy45LDVoLTI4QzcuMiw1LDUsNy4yLDUsMTB2MjEuM2MwLDIuNywyLjIsNSw0LjksNWgxNC42djQuM2MwLDEuNSwwLjgsMiwxLjIsMi4xICAgICAgICAgYzAuMiwwLjEsMC40LDAuMSwwLjcsMC4xYzAuNiwwLDEuMS0wLjMsMS42LTAuOGw1LjktNS43aDRjMi43LDAsNC45LTIuMiw0LjktNVYxMEM0Mi44LDcuMiw0MC42LDUsMzcuOSw1TDM3LjksNXoiIGlkPSJzdmdfMSIgY2xhc3M9IiIgZmlsbD0iI2ZmZmZmZiIgZmlsbC1vcGFjaXR5PSIxIi8+PHBhdGggZD0iTTI4LjcsMjMuN2MwLjQsMC40LDAuNCwxLjIsMCwxLjZjLTAuMiwwLjItMC41LDAuMy0wLjgsMC4zcy0wLjYtMC4xLTAuOC0wLjNMMjQsMjIuMmwtMy4xLDMuMWMtMC40LDAuNC0xLjIsMC40LTEuNiwwICAgICAgICAgcy0wLjQtMS4yLDAtMS42bDMuMS0zLjFsLTMuMS0zLjFjLTAuNC0wLjQtMC40LTEuMiwwLTEuNnMxLjItMC40LDEuNiwwTDI0LDE5bDMuMS0zLjFjMC40LTAuNCwxLjItMC40LDEuNiwwICAgICAgICAgYzAuMiwwLjIsMC4zLDAuNSwwLjMsMC44cy0wLjEsMC42LTAuMywwLjhsLTMuMSwzLjFMMjguNywyMy43eiIgaWQ9InN2Z18yIiBjbGFzcz0iIiBmaWxsPSIjZmZmZmZmIiBmaWxsLW9wYWNpdHk9IjEiLz48L2c+PC9zdmc+);background-size:contain}.eb-dark{border:.5px 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.title-block{font:30px/normal UOLText,Georgia,serif}#cover .description{font-size:16px}.title-numeral .title{padding-bottom:13px}.title-numeral .title-block{font-size:69px;line-height:60px;font-weight:700}.title-numeral .text-right .text{padding-right:60px;margin-top:-16px}.title-numeral .text-left .text{padding-left:60px;margin-top:-16px}.title-numeral.shadow-middle{background-image:linear-gradient(to bottom,transparent,rgba(0,0,0,.8))}.title-numeral .titleShort{width:max-content;margin:0 auto}.title-numeral .text-left .titleShort .title,.title-numeral .text-right .titleShort .title{margin:initial;height:100%;display:inline-block}.title-numeral .text-left .titleShort .text{padding-left:58px;width:242px}.title-numeral .text-right .titleShort .text{padding-right:58px;width:242px}.notOrdered,.ordered{color:#fff;padding:0;counter-reset:listCounter;font-size:18px;line-height:28px}.notOrdered li:first-child,.ordered li:first-child{margin-top:0}.ordered li{list-style:none;margin:20px 0}.notOrdered li{list-style:none;margin:20px 0 20px 0}.text-center .ordered li::before{font-size:20px;font-weight:700;counter-increment:listCounter;content:counter(listCounter) ". "}.text-right .ordered li::before{position:relative;top:0;height:100%;right:5px;font-size:20px;font-weight:700;counter-increment:listCounter;content:counter(listCounter) ". "}.text-left .ordered li::before{position:fixed;top:0;height:100%;left:0;font-size:20px;font-weight:700;counter-increment:listCounter;content:counter(listCounter) ". "}.text-left .ordered .text{padding-left:20px}.text-center .notOrdered li::before,.text-left .notOrdered li::before,.text-right .notOrdered li::before{content:"•";position:relative;top:4px;height:100%;font-size:30px;right:5px;left:0;margin-right:10px}.quote .grid-first.valign-top{padding-top:40px}.quote .grid-third.valign-bottom{padding-bottom:40px}.quote .quote-columns{display:grid;grid-template-columns:11% 89%}.quote .title{margin-top:2px;letter-spacing:.4px;font-size:20px;line-height:25px;font-weight:400;font-family:UOLTextItalic}.quote .quote-open:before{content:"\201C";font:normal 100px/87px UOLText,Georgia,serif}.quote .quote-open:after,.quote .title:after{width:inherit;height:inherit;content:none}.quote p{letter-spacing:0rem;font-size:.86rem;line-height:0rem}.quote .author{font-size:14px;line-height:20px;font-weight:700}.quote .author-description{font-size:14px;line-height:18px}.list-photo,amp-story-page[id^=page] ul{grid-gap:initial}.list-photo{grid-template-rows:33.33% 66.67%}.list-photo .grid-first{height:100%}.list-photo .grid-second{display:initial;height:100%;padding:1.467rem 1.8rem 0 1.8rem}.list-photo .grid-first amp-img{width:100%;height:100%}.list-photo .grid-first img{height:100%;object-fit:cover}.list-photo .title:after{background:#fff}.list-photo ol li:before,.list-photo ul li:before{color:#fff}.photo-two-thirds-bottom{color:#000}.photo-two-thirds-bottom{grid-template-rows:33.33% 66.67%}.photo-two-thirds-bottom .grid-second{height:100%}.photo-two-thirds-bottom .grid-first{padding:2.5rem 1.8rem 0 1.8rem}.photo-two-thirds-bottom .grid-second img{height:100%;object-fit:cover}.photo-two-thirds-top{color:#000}.photo-two-thirds-top{grid-template-rows:66.67% 33.33%}.photo-two-thirds-top .grid-first{height:100%}.photo-two-thirds-top .grid-second{padding:0 1.8rem}amp-story-page[id^=page] .layer-image div[class^=grid-]{height:100%}amp-story-page[id^=page] img{height:100%;object-fit:cover}amp-story-page[id^=page] .photo-two-thirds-top 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.title-block{font:30px/normal UOLText,Georgia,serif}#cover .description{font-size:16px}.title-numeral .title{padding-bottom:13px}.title-numeral .title-block{font-size:69px;line-height:60px;font-weight:700}.title-numeral .text-right .text{padding-right:60px;margin-top:-16px}.title-numeral .text-left .text{padding-left:60px;margin-top:-16px}.title-numeral.shadow-middle{background-image:linear-gradient(to bottom,transparent,rgba(0,0,0,.8))}.title-numeral.shadow-middle.text-dark{background-image:linear-gradient(to bottom,transparent,rgba(255,255,255,.8))}.title-numeral .titleShort{width:max-content;margin:0 auto}.title-numeral .text-left .titleShort .title,.title-numeral .text-right .titleShort .title{margin:initial;height:100%;display:inline-block}.title-numeral .text-left .titleShort .text{padding-left:58px;width:242px}.title-numeral .text-right .titleShort .text{padding-right:58px;width:242px}.notOrdered,.ordered{color:#fff;padding:0;counter-reset:listCounter;font-size:18px;line-height:28px}.notOrdered li:first-child,.ordered li:first-child{margin-top:0}.ordered li{list-style:none;margin:20px 0}.notOrdered li{list-style:none;margin:20px 0 20px 0}.text-center .ordered li::before{font-size:20px;font-weight:700;counter-increment:listCounter;content:counter(listCounter) ". "}.text-right .ordered li::before{position:relative;top:0;height:100%;right:5px;font-size:20px;font-weight:700;counter-increment:listCounter;content:counter(listCounter) ". "}.text-left .ordered li::before{position:fixed;top:0;height:100%;left:0;font-size:20px;font-weight:700;counter-increment:listCounter;content:counter(listCounter) ". "}.text-left .ordered .text{padding-left:20px}.text-center .notOrdered li::before,.text-left .notOrdered li::before,.text-right .notOrdered li::before{content:"•";position:relative;top:4px;height:100%;font-size:30px;right:5px;left:0;margin-right:10px}.quote .grid-first.valign-top{padding-top:40px}.quote .grid-third.valign-bottom{padding-bottom:40px}.quote .quote-columns{display:grid;grid-template-columns:11% 89%}.quote .title{margin-top:2px;letter-spacing:.4px;font-size:20px;line-height:25px;font-weight:400;font-family:UOLTextItalic}.quote .quote-open:before{content:"\201C";font:normal 100px/87px UOLText,Georgia,serif}.quote .quote-open:after,.quote .title:after{width:inherit;height:inherit;content:none}.quote p{letter-spacing:0rem;font-size:.86rem;line-height:0rem}.quote .author{font-size:14px;line-height:20px;font-weight:700}.quote .author-description{font-size:14px;line-height:18px}.list-photo,amp-story-page[id^=page] ul{grid-gap:initial}.list-photo{grid-template-rows:33.33% 66.67%}.list-photo .grid-first{height:100%}.list-photo .grid-second{display:initial;height:100%;padding:1.467rem 1.8rem 0 1.8rem}.list-photo .grid-first amp-img{width:100%;height:100%}.list-photo .grid-first img{height:100%;object-fit:cover}.list-photo .title:after{background:#fff}.list-photo ol li:before,.list-photo ul li:before{color:#fff}.photo-two-thirds-bottom{background:#fff;color:#000}.photo-two-thirds-bottom{grid-template-rows:33.33% 66.67%}.photo-two-thirds-bottom .grid-second{height:100%}.photo-two-thirds-bottom .grid-first{padding:2.5rem 1.8rem 0 1.8rem}.photo-two-thirds-bottom .grid-second img{height:100%;object-fit:cover}.photo-two-thirds-top{background:#fff;color:#000}.photo-two-thirds-top{grid-template-rows:66.67% 33.33%}.photo-two-thirds-top .grid-first{height:100%}.photo-two-thirds-top .grid-second{padding:0 1.8rem}amp-story-page[id^=page] .layer-image div[class^=grid-]{height:100%}amp-story-page[id^=page] img{height:100%;object-fit:cover}amp-story-page[id^=page] .photo-two-thirds-top p{padding:0}.photo-two-thirds-top .grid-first img{height:100%;object-fit:cover}#credits{background:#fff}#credits .logo{display:grid;width:100%;justify-items:center}#credits .grid-first .logo{padding-top:40px;padding-bottom:1rem}#credits .grid-second .sponsors{padding-bottom:40px}#credits .published{display:block;line-height:2rem;padding-bottom:1rem}#credits .published span{display:block}#credits .published:after{content:''}/* !end-color-cp:amp-stories-story-editorial *//* !color-cp:youtube-embed */@-webkit-keyframes rotate-center{0%{-webkit-transform:rotate(0);transform:rotate(0)}100%{-webkit-transform:rotate(360deg);transform:rotate(360deg)}}@keyframes rotate-center{0%{-webkit-transform:rotate(0);transform:rotate(0)}100%{-webkit-transform:rotate(360deg);transform:rotate(360deg)}}.youtube-embed .loading path{fill:#42A64B}/* !end-color-cp:youtube-embed *//* !color-cp:wording-info */.wording-info .wording-info-box .wording-description 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Ele largou o futebol cedo e hoje é dono da maior onda surfada na história
Marcello De Vico
Do UOL, em Santos (SP)
09/02/2019 04h00
Do Guarujá para o Mundo. Radicado no litoral paulista, Rodrigo Koxa precisou de pouco tempo de vida para perceber qual seria a sua grande paixão: surfar. Com oito anos, começou a pegar onda, e já aos 14 "'virou uma chave" que acabou definindo o rumo que iria tomar no esporte: queria ser um big rider (surfista de onda gigante). Uma reportagem numa tradicional revista de surfe brasileira (Hardcore) o fez largar o mundo da competição para se arriscar na busca pelas maiores ondas do Mundo. E deu (mais do que) certo. Hoje, ele é simplesmente o dono do recorde de maior onda já surfada na história - registrada pelo Guinness Book e reconhecida pela WSL (Liga Mundial de Surfe).
Mas muita água rolou para que esse feito (em Nazaré, Portugal) fosse alcançado. O menino que chegou a pensar em ser jogador de futebol largou cedo o esporte mais popular do Brasil para dar atenção ao que realmente lhe fazia bem: estar em contato com a natureza e pegar onda. Aos 12 anos, venceu seu primeiro campeonato, mas algo lhe dizia que ainda não havia encontrado o que realmente buscava. Os bons resultados nas competições foram desaparecendo e, aos 14, veio o grande estalo, graças a uma reportagem sobre big riders - até então algo totalmente fresco na cabeça do surfista, como conta em entrevista ao UOL Esporte .
Rodrigo Koxa (dir.) aos 8 anos, ao lado do amigo e também surfista guarujaense Rony Bonetti
Imagem: Arquivo pessoal/Rodrigo Koxa "Eu comecei a surfar com oito anos e com nove já participava de campeonatos aqui pela região, Guarujá, São Paulo. Eu jogava [futebol de] salão pelo colégio, society por uma escolinha e campo pelo clube, tinha três times. E no final de semana tinham jogos contra, e também tinham os campeonatos de surfe. E eu preferia [o surfe]. Com 12 anos ganhei meu primeiro campeonato e estava amarradão nesse novo esporte, porque eu jogava futebol antes. Eu queria realmente virar um profissional de surfe, fiquei alucinado com o esporte e não queria sair mais d'água. Depois que eu ganhei um campeonato, então, com 12 anos, falei: 'nossa, quero viver disso para sempre'. Só que depois eu comecei a parar de me dar bem nos campeonatos, com 13, 14 anos, não ganhava mais, o que de repente me despertou as histórias que eu via, pessoas que surfavam ondas grandes, eu já me encantava com isso. E com 14 anos eu vi uma matéria muito irada que mexeu comigo. Falava de big riders que viajavam o mundo para surfar onda gigante e falava que eles não competiam, que somente viajavam, faziam expedições, surfavam ondas grandes, tinham patrocínios...", recorda Rodrigo Koxa, hoje com 39 anos de idade.
Apesar da alegria de ter vencido o seu primeiro campeonato, aos 12 anos, Koxa sentia que algo não encaixava. A questão de 'ter que vencer todos adversários e ficar em primeiro' não condizia com o que lhe fazia bem. Era hora de deixar as competições de lado, e foi o que aconteceu.
"Muito novo eu comecei a perceber uma coisa estranha em mim. Quando a gente vence, explode nosso ego. Você fica muito feliz quando criança: 'ganhei!'. E depois que você começa a perder... Para uma criança, é muito mais legal participar, confraternizar, fazer parte de alguma coisa, do que você se sentir perdedor. E num campeonato de surfe, na minha época tinham umas 40 crianças competindo, e uma ganhava. Quando eu ganhei, só eu fiquei feliz. Quando eu perdia, vários perdiam. Era difícil para uma criança entender isso, maçante. Então eu questionava essa parte competitiva de você ter que vencer para alguém, ganhar porque alguém está julgando sua onda, e você acaba sendo mais feliz quando as pessoas dizem que sua onda é boa e acaba ficando mais triste quando elas dizem que não", conta o surfista paulista.
Isso que eu vi no surfe de onda grande. O fato de você viajar, pegar a sua onda, e a sua onda é o seu troféu"
"Acho que o esporte vai além disso, transcende. Esporte é para fazer bem para a nossa alma. É uma terapia da vida, e não algo que você questione, fique triste depois de dar o seu melhor. Então foi o que aconteceu comigo; com 14 anos vi essa matéria dizendo que você viajando o mundo, seria, sim, profissional, e senti que minha alma não seria ferida. Não teria isso de não ganhar, ter que provar que sou o melhor. E na onda grande é isso. Quem surfa onda grande sabe: vão dez caras surfar onda gigante e os dez voltam campeões. Os dez voltam com o sentimento de missão cumprida. 'Fui ali no mar gigante, estava ali vivendo meus medos, o amor que tenho pela natureza e pelo esporte', e ali você consegue ficar feliz, voltar para casa com a sua foto, com o seu vídeo, e sempre melhorando. Isso que eu vi no surfe de onda grande. O fato de você viajar, pegar a sua onda, e a sua onda é o seu troféu. A sociedade é muito competitiva. Sempre quer impor: quem foi campeão, quem venceu. E acho que vai além disso. Acho que a gente tem que ter mais sensibilidade em fazer com amor o que ama. Esse é o caminho que eu tracei para minha vida inteira: fazer com amor e comprometimento", acrescenta. Imagem: Reprodução
Viagem ao México aos 15 anos impulsionou sonho
Depois do 'estalo', não demorou muito para Koxa começar a viajar em busca de ondas grandes. Aos 15 anos, teve a sorte - como ele mesmo diz - de ir ao México surfar a tradicional onda de Puerto Escondido. A viagem foi perfeita: não só contou com uma ótima performance do surfista paulista como também rendeu ótimas fotos. O suficiente para Koxa cravar: sou um big rider.
A disputa é comigo mesmo, sempre quero estar um pouco melhor, eu e o mar, sem me comparar com ninguém"
Rodrigo Koxa em Puerto Escondido, México, 1996
Imagem: Arquivo pessoal/Rodrigo Koxa "Com 15 eu já comecei a viajar, a entrar nesse universo de cabeça mesmo, e tive sorte de ir para o México. Não tinha internet naquela época para ver previsões. E eu volto dessa viagem com um swell irado de 15 pés que deu em Puerto [Escondido], e eu era novinho. Acabou que eu surfei altas ondas, consegui altas fotos, voltei para o Brasil cheio de foto e já batia nas empresas falando 'eu sou big rider , quero patrocínio, quero viver disso', e aquelas fotos foram, para mim, o maior troféu da minha vida, que me despertou, me motivou. Eu andava com as fotos para cima e para baixo e aquilo realmente me deu essa identificação: quero surfar onda grande, é isso que eu quero. O troféu para mim não era vencer outros surfistas. Meu desafio passou a ser entender a natureza do mar e o meu desafio era comigo mesmo, olhar o mar e tentar entrar em harmonia, surfar, me superar, e foi o que fiz na minha vida inteira, até hoje, tento todo dia melhorar um pouco. A disputa é comigo mesmo, sempre quero estar um pouco melhor, eu e o mar, eu e a natureza, sem me comparar com ninguém. Então acho que isso que mexeu comigo, essa competição interna; eu melhorar dentro do mar, e o mar era o meu desafio", afirma.
Koxa viveu período mais difícil da vida antes de recorde histórico
Antes de chegarmos ao histórico recorde de maior onda já surfada na história, é indispensável passar por um episódio que fez Rodrigo Koxa viver o momento mais complicado de sua vida. O cenário era o mesmo: Nazaré, Portugal, hoje "a Fórmula 1 do surfe", como o surfista paulista classifica. Em dezembro de 2014, três anos antes da onda que lhe rendeu a marca no Guinness, Koxa passou por momentos de extrema tensão depois de levar um caldo sinistro que por pouco não o jogou para as pedras.
Imagem: Shannon Reporting "Eu surfei um swell bem grande em 28 de novembro de 2014. Tomei uns caldos que foram pesados, mas consegui lidar bem. Estava prestes a voltar para o Brasil, 5 de dezembro, quando eu vi, lá mesmo em Portugal, uma previsão para o dia 11. Aí mudo a passagem, fico para o swell e pego três ondas. Na terceira, meu parceiro me coloca na onda, não consegue me resgatar e tomo na cabeça ondas enormes lá de trás do Farol, com medo de ser jogado nas pedras. Essa foi a pior parte, psicológica. Enquanto tomava na cabeça, estava segurando na apneia, mas achava que, em algum momento, seria jogado nas pedras se não houvesse resgate. Meu parceiro vira o jet-ski, perde o jet-ski, não tenho parceiro, não tenho mais backup, e ali foi um momento de terror na cabeça. Fiquei com muito medo, contando os minutos para quando iria bater nas pedras. A gente não tem treino para bater nas pedras, né? Pedi muito a Deus, fiquei muito na fé pois não tinha mais o que fazer, fiquei vulnerável. Graças a Deus, a nossos anjos, a toda energia que envolve, entrou uma série de leste que me jogou em direção à praia, e eu mergulho e deixo ela me pegar. Esses caldos foram pesados, porém positivos em direção à areia. E nisso consigo ir a caminho da praia, beirando o corredor, muito próximo às pedras - ouvia a galera gritando e assobiando para eu sair dali, como se eu pudesse [risos] -, e deu certo", recorda.
Rodrigo Koxa não sofreu nada grave. Fisicamente. Psicologicamente, porém, o episódio de terror fez o surfista paulista conviver por algum tempo com pesadelos e até com a dúvida de se voltaria a fazer o que mais amava. Foi, inclusive, diagnosticado com transtorno de estresse pós-traumático. Uma onda gigante que também precisou ser surfada em sua mente.
Fui diagnosticado com transtorno de estresse pós-traumático, e foi o período mais difícil da minha vida"
"Cheguei na areia e fiquei muito abalado. Tremia, fiquei assustado, vi como a gente pode se submeter a uma situação perigosa assim, de oceano, e fiquei com bastante receio. Lembro que voltei para o Brasil com pesadelos e pesadelos na cabeça. Tinha muito pesadelo com pedra. Fui diagnosticado com transtorno de estresse pós-traumático, e foi o período mais difícil da minha vida. Fiquei um tempão tentando entender, questionei se voltaria a surfar onda grande, e aí começo a trabalhar nessa volta; minha mulher psicóloga, minha mãe psicoterapeuta quântica, e foi todo mundo me ajudando e tentando fazer eu entender aquilo. E fui melhorando de maneira gradativa e tentando recuperar minha essência. Foram dois anos trabalhando em cima disso: 2015 e 2016 para em 2017, enfim, eu me sentir bem melhor. E fui para Nazaré e consegui me superar, de fato, com uma onda gigantesca que mudou minha vida", conta.
Durante esse período de quase três anos entre o caldo traumático e a maior onda surfada na história, em Nazaré, Rodrigo Koxa não parou de surfar. E nem podia se realmente queria se superar. Mas surfar sozinho e em locais com pedras era algo que ainda o incomodava.
Quando me sentia sozinho no mar e surfava perto de pedra, ficava assustado"
"Eu surfava todo dia. Nunca parei de surfar. Estava tendo era fobia, toda vez que ia surfar onda grande, até no Brasil, em Maresias... Quando me sentia sozinho no mar, ficava assustado, quando surfava perto de pedra também. Então meu medo ficou mais com pedra e me sentir sozinho no mar. Foram duas coisas que me deixavam desorientado, me dava uma fobia. E isso só fazia eu surfar cada vez mais, treinar cada vez mais, porque eu queria me superar. Mas ao mesmo tempo eu precisava elaborar isso. Então, em 2015 e 16 fui para Nazaré antes de a temporada começar e fico lá treinando com minha equipe. Surfei, voltei para Nazaré em 15/16, depois em 16/17, e fui bater o recorde na terceira temporada, de 17 para 18. E nessas duas temporadas eu dei sorte, não deram ondas tão grandes. Eu ainda me sentia com medo. Toda vez estava questionando, e foi quando eu e o Sérgio [Cosme, surfista português], principalmente, passamos a treinar juntos. E treinar junto que foi me dando essa segurança novamente, de ter uma equipe, de me sentir acolhido por um cara que estava treinando comigo, confiando nele, e a gente foi voltando e se recuperando para 2017 alinhar tudo: melhores pranchas, coletes, equipe treinada, minha cabeça melhor, eu já tinha elaborado o que queria, e fui para cima", conta.
O grande dia: "saí comemorando como se fosse Copa do Mundo"
8 de novembro de 2017. Tudo estava alinhado para Rodrigo Koxa não necessariamente quebrar o recorde de maior onda já surfada na história, mas ao menos para pegar uma onda gigante que o satisfizesse. Mas depois de 1h30 posicionado no mar de Nazaré, veio a bomba. Com a ajuda do parceiro, Koxa dropou algo que não parecia ter fim: 24,38 metros (80 pés) de muita, mas muita água. A onda fez o brasileiro conquistar o WSL Big Wave Awards (XXL) de 2018, o Oscar das Ondas Gigantes, e entrar para o Guinness Book com a maior onda já surfada na história, desbancando o título que pertencia ao americano Garrett McNamara, também em Nazaré, com uma onda de 78 pés (23,77 metros) em 2011. Imagem: Rafael Alvim
"Para bater o recorde eu estava alinhado. Começo 2017 bem melhor, super a fim de surfar uma onda gigante, e, de fato, fiquei muito forte, explodindo de energia em setembro de 2017, dois meses antes de eu pegar a onda, quando faço um coaching em Santos. No coaching, eu trabalho o objetivo de surfar a maior onda da minha vida, a maior onda do mundo. E saio do coaching assim: 'Cadê o swell? Quando vier a bomba vou pegar', e vou para Nazaré psicopata, pronto para surfar a maior onda. Estava tudo alinhado. Fui no fim de outubro de 2017, e 8 de novembro vem essa onda, comigo totalmente comprometido, alinhado, com todas melhorias de cabeça, de equipe, equipamentos, para surfar a maior onda do mundo. Eu não imaginava que ela viria, mas eu estava muito forte, cheio de ferramentas e âncoras do coaching, e aí vem a gigante", conta.
A onda deu a energia e a velocidade suficientes para eu completar e sair comemorando como se fosse um gol"
Imagem: Aline Cacozzi "Meu parceiro Serginho vai comigo para o fundo, a gente fica 1h30 esperando uma onda enorme, ele me pergunta o que eu queria, falei 'quero uma onda gigante, pode esperar a bomba', e, assim que vem uma série enorme, ele vai para o fundo, passa duas ondas por cima e, na terceira, já olha para mim e fala: 'é a bomba'. Falo para ele 'go, go ', e pego a onda da minha vida. Dei um drop gigante, a onda não parava de crescer, em frente ao Farol - um lugar perigosíssimo onde eu tinha passado o perrengue da minha vida - e eu estava ali descendo uma muralha de água que não tinha fim, e deu tudo certo. No meio da onda fica uma sombra, um barulho absurdo atrás de mim, e a onda deu a energia e a velocidade suficientes para eu completar ela e sair comemorando como se fosse um gol, da minha vida, da Copa do Mundo, que mudava a minha vida ali, pelo menos intrinsecamente. Para mim, já tinha surfado a maior onda da minha vida e só fiquei esperando depois, no final de abril, o XXL, já com favoritismo de ter surfado a maior onda. Depois só fui esperar ser consagrado pela WSL e já veio a medição de 80 pés, 24,38 m, como a maior da história, Guinness World Records", comemora.
E agora?: "Sempre quero surfar uma onda maior"
Engana-se quem acredita que, por conta da marca atingida, Rodrigo Koxa sossegou. Os objetivos simplesmente seguem os mesmos, independentemente de ser o dono do recorde de maior onda já surfada na história. Como um legítimo 'surfista de alma', ele quer é continuar se divertindo no mar. O que isso significa? Para ele, seguir em busca da maior onda da vida.
Hoje estou em gratidão, em paz, não nessa agonia de querer bater meu recorde"
Imagem: Aline Cacozzi "O meu objetivo hoje é aquele lá de criança ainda, dos 14 e 15 anos de idade: viajar o mundo, surfar cada vez mais, me superar. Se o objetivo é esse, surfar e me superar, acho que, naturalmente, eu bato meu recorde [risos]. É dessa forma que vivo, com muito amor ao esporte, a ondas gigantes, sempre estudando o mar, trabalhando em equipe, conhecimento de novos materiais e formas de como surfar uma onda gigante... Acho que, quando você está estudando, treinando, está focado, você, naturalmente, busca essa superação. Então meu objetivo é me superar cada vez mais. Eu sempre fui muito intenso. Sempre vivi com muita intensidade em meus objetivos. Hoje estou em gratidão, em paz, não nessa agonia de querer bater meu recorde, mas eu treino, vivo isso com minha equipe, e sempre quando dá um mar gigante eu estou lá. Sempre quero surfar uma onda maior, e se vier para mim e o Serginho falar de novo 'Koxa, é bomba, querer ir? [com sotaque português]', estou indo, estamos juntos", completa Koxa, que também concorre ao prêmio Big Wave Awards desse ano na categoria 'maior onda'.
Errata: o texto foi atualizado
Diferente do publicado anteriormente, Rodrigo Koxa nasceu em Jundiaí e durante a infância foi morar no Guarujá. O erro foi corrigido.
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